The Parthenon in Nashville, Tennessee

It has been decided that I must return to Nashville. I made that decision as soon as I realized all the things I didn't get a chance to do. Add it back to the list! But for now...

My adventure to Tennessee was really to spend time with my friend, Aggie. She lives outside of Nashville near the Kentucky border. Literally. We were driving around her town and she said, "On the other side of that power truck is Kentucky." Things are much more compact on the eastern side of the country, I guess.

I knew I loved Tennessee the moment we headed out of the airport. A collection of white wooden rocking chairs sat in the arrivals lobby, filled with loved ones awaiting the arrival of a family member or friend. It was beautiful and what I imagine to be a physical representation of the Tennessee spirit. If I had been smart about things I would have had my camera out of my carry-on and ready to take the classic picture, but instead I snapped a shot of one of these chairs on my way out of the state. If only I could have brought it home with me...

The biggest thing on my list of places to see in Nashville was the Parthenon. Yes, you read that correctly. Nashville is known as the Athens of the South, and they built a Parthenon to prove it. Actually, the built the thing out of wood back in the day for the Centennial Anniversary as a symbol of strength and prosperity. They later had to redo as wood wasn't the best building material for an exact replica of the Greek monument. All I can say about the Parthenon is it is SO BIG! Like, really big. Huge! I still can't wrap my mind around the sheer size and volume of that place. And inside is a statue of Athena as tall as the building! We didn't get to see it as we were on a trolley tour of the city, but I will be back someday! And it has inspired me to visit Greece to see the first Parthenon. Aggie wasn't as impressed as I was because she drives by it on the way to see her baby doctor. Well, I think I was gobsmacked enough for the both of us.

We had visited the Parthenon as we were on a trolley tour of Nashville. You may laugh at this, but let me tell you, it felt all right to be a tourist in Nashville. The tour guides wanted us to learn about their city, to share the culture and stories that go with every building, street and sculpture. Otis took us on our first tour, the trolley ride of Nashville. Otis taught us all about the history of certain parts of Nashville and quizzed us on our music knowledge on the ride back. He told us the real reason Nashville is called "Music City" and showed us where Taylor Swift lives. He showed us the best BBQ in town (a place called Jack's on Broadway) and pointed out where to find the best burgers (he pointed to at least four places).

We stumbled into our next tour by accident as we de-trolleyed and inquired about the Ryman Auditorium. Jill took us to see the path musicians follow before they play a gig at the famed former home of the Grand Ole Opry. We stopped into Hatch's and learned that it's unlucky to get your posters printed anywhere else, as well as saw the famed Hatch's cats (well, the big one, at least). We walked by the place to get your guitar, and hoped to see Keith Urban or Brad Paisley in the parking lot as apparently happens sometimes. We didn't, though. We walked up to the Ryman, toured the dressing rooms and backstage, learned the rules for the Opry performers (1. Never come late; 2. Never swear backstage), and learned that you only get two shots before you're banned for life. Hank Williams Sr. is still banned. We walked down the alley where Willie Nelson sold his first song, "Crazy," which Patsy Cline hated at first. We went into Tootsie's where Brad Paisley and Kid Rock like to jam with a reggae beat in the background, that was painted orchid because the painter didn't know what color taupe is. We went into Ernest Tubb's Record Shop, where every night at midnight they host a Midnight Jamboree, although it's moved locations and hours.




















We had lunch at the Wildhorse Saloon, which would be a great place to take in a show. Horse caricatures are literally everywhere, as well as horse murals and horse heads made out of license plates and horse replicas hanging from the ceiling. We learned (twice) that Broadway, the heart of downtown Nashville, is split into smoking and non-smoking sides of the street. Stick to Tootsie's and Jack's if you're like me, allergic to smoke and everything about it.

The thing I enjoyed most about our tours was the stories. It's like everyone in Tennessee knows all of the stories ever told about the Music City. Otis was pointing out where Kenny Chesney got his start and the place that Elvis recorded his albums and his buddy sitting over by the restaurant Keith Urban and Nicole Kidman ate at over the weekend. They love their state! When you walk through the airport even the big names in music welcome you to their town. Plus, they have boots and hats you can buy at every other store.

If you're going to visit Nashville, definitely stay in the downtown area, and definitely take a Gray Line tour or two. Not only was it cheaper ($15 for a tour of the Ryman that was probably better than the $17 tour from the Auditorium itself), but you also learned a lot more about other areas tied to a show and got to see a lot more. Plus, you still get to stand on the stage and sit where Keith Urban sits before shows (but no Keith, darnit). Walk around and visit the different areas of Nashville, from the honkytonks on Broadway to the studios on Music Row (maybe you'll see Taylor Swift heading to the studio) to the monuments and sculptures around the Capital and Bicentennial Park.

Facts we learned on our tour of Nashville:
Nashville got the name "Music City" from the Queen. That's right! The Frist Singers performed for Her Majesty and she wrote a letter back to Nashville saying that she was so impressed with there performance that it must be the music city.

Elvis was booed off the stage the first time he performed at the Ryman and refused to ever play Nashville again. He never did, although he was willing to record a few hit songs in the city.

Dolly Parton sends every child born in Tennessee a book every month for their first five years. Jill the tour guide said that her daughters have all 60 books. We wondered how to sign Aggie's baby boy up on the list.

Willie Nelson and Kris Kristofferson slept (still sleep?) on the roof of Tootsie's because Tootsie didn't want them sleeping on the street.

Tim McGraw is on the bad boy list at the Ryman. He swore backstage and he got his first strike. If he breaks any other rules he's banned from the building for life! And yes, they do have a hall monitor to watch for rule breakers.

Johnny Cash is the only person who was allowed back into the Ryman after being banned for life. Hank Williams didn't show for four consecutive shows and was banned. And the only excuse they take for being late is if you were in a Nascar race.